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February 2007

I'm Still Standing?

reem

REEM ACRA
How's this for an idea: trousers as evening wear.

That seems to be the message that Reem Acra was trying to get across in her fall collection. I'm not so sure that women will warm up to this concept as it is a little off-the-beaten-track fashion-wise these days (and most style-conscious ladies certainly won't want to give up more overtly sexy strappy cocktail frocks and long backless-something-or-others). But personally, I found the look very refreshing, particularly since the trousers in question were wide and had nice movemet as the models walked. Plus, the look was very 30's/70's and as a creature of habit, I pretty much like anything that looks to be inspired by those decades (within reason, of course...leisure suits are always bad).

Constructed from plush velvet and silk chiffon, these bottoms were paired with everything from sequin tunics to cowl neck tops. Reem's color-story was almost identical to that of Marc Bouwer: jewel-tones in ruby, navy, and emerald (I applaud her use of spearamint green, particularly the beaded v-neck satin gown). And with much of the collection being velvet or draped disco-style, there were many pieces that could easily have been swapped for Marc's (or vice-versa) and no one would have been the wiser. Seat or no seat? NO SEAT

ERIN FETHERSTON
Erin Fetherston is one of those young designers that no one had heard of and then suddenly out of nowhere was featured almost simultaneously in every major fashion magazine. But add together some family wealth, a few starlet friends, and a well-connected publicist, and what you've got is a non-stop train to the glossy pages. Needless to say, after only seeing drips and drabs of her work in the past (all of it of the wearable fairy-tale variety), I was very curious to see Erin's full collection for fall. And it was exactly like I expected: floaty, frothy little glad rags befitting one's fairy tale tea party. It was pretty enough but there was really nothing terribly new: almost everything was short with high waists and a-line shapes (it was all very Chloe, in my humble opinion). The slightly bubble-shaped numbers with big ruffled hems recalled Balenciaga fall '06 (though less exaggerated and more wearable). The strappy dresses with bust cups looked very ill-fitting and would have been better off with simple darts. I did find a couple pieces I liked: the grey suspender romper is something I can see myself wearing (but then again, I have been substituting shorts for skirts since my high school days) and the white and silver jacquard coat would look great in a sea of black in the dead of winter. I can't help but wonder, though, how much the show would have been improved upon if Erin had just put the kaboosh on the thigh-high sock-stocking hybrids (sockings?). The sequin cloches caps were a nice touch, though. Seat or no seat? NO SEAT

erin

Mood for Thought
With all the back-stabbing and bitchery that is associated with Fashion Week, I've come to the realization that most of the attendees must have a lot more bark than actual bite (and not much bark either). In practically every line I have stood in, people were cutting and squirming their way to the front and no one made any attempt at reprimanding the culprits. Granted, I didn't go to the Marc Jacobs or Heatherette shows (which I am sure were a different story), but those who ended up further back in the pack as a result must have been at least a little annoyed. Who knew fashion people could be such, well, pussies?
gustavo

GUSTAVO ARANGO
"All that glitters" must be Gustavo Arango's call to arms because practically every piece in his fall collection had some sort of reflective quality to it. But given that he is classified as an eveningwear designer (christalmighty, I know I've done this Fashion Week thing before, but I do feel as though I've seen a more gowns this time around than I care to remember), I suppose he is forgiven somewhat.

However, it was the less formal ensembs that caught my eye the most. The bright orange satin bell-sleeve jacket with glittery disco sheath underneath practically popped off the runway while the shiny eggplant suit with nipped-waist jacket and wide-legged trousers well-suited (har har) my own taste, even if it was a little mother-of-the-Bar Mitzvah boy. There was even a little iridescent green ruched cocktail dress that reminded me of so many 80's-era party dresses that I've sold on eBay. Nothing else particularly wowed me, though. After seeing formal dresses from Venexiana and Marc Bouwer already, Gustavo's pieces just seemed to lack some sort of spark with me (though actual sparkles were not a problem). Seat or no seat? NO SEAT

Mood for Thought II
Be prepared, oh little stretch pant'd ones: one of the biggest (and pleasant) surprises this week is the seeming downfall of The Legging. Oh yes, they were there, but in much MUCH fewer numbers than I had anticpated. Taking their place was the tent dress/ black tights/ high chunky shoe combo (something I liked last Friday, but am really burnt out on at this point). Could this also mean that skinny jeans will soon be following suit?

THE BEST OF THE REST
sue
Sue Stemp

phillip
Phillip Lim

tibi
Tibi

reyes
Reyes

Sue Stemp
I adored the first look down the runway in an editorial-only sort of way (pictured) but when the much more wearable drop-waisted flapper dresses came walking, I was hooked. With lots of black mixed with metallic silver and copper, finally there were some options other than waistlines up at the model's armpits (not that there's anything wrong with that).

3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip has had the luck of being singled out by the fashion elite (as they like to do every so often), but I have to say, as much as I try to not be sucked in by that sort of hype, I was captivated by this collection. With slouchy shift dresses layered over and under, modified kimono sleeves, and sharp epauletted shoulders, Phillip managed to mix very sharp tailoring and geometric shapes with drapey jersey and soft edges with incredible ease.

Tibi
This was another collection rooted in the 1920's. But where Sue Stemp's lasses were dancing the Charleston at The Stork Club, Tibi girls, to quote designer Amy Smilovic, are like "Amelia Earhart playing dress up". Translated that means mix and match sportswear pieces like the fantastic white hipster line coat, cherry print day dresses, and wide legged trousers. Lots of solid black, white, and grey.

Reyes
José Ramon Reyes is quickly becoming one of my favorite designers. He continued his fondness for sporty athletic gear from spring to fall with multi-pocket utility dresses, drawstring collars, and wetsuit-inspired pieces. The parachute-like fabric he used may induce an 80's flashback in some, but nothing on the runway looked even remotely retro.

coffee!!! And in conclusion...
All in all, it was a much less eventful week, stresswise. Weatherwise, it was absolute torture with temperatures and wind chills more befitting the Arctic Circle. It was a struggle to even get the drive to leave my apartment at times. But I did follow my Rules for Fashion Week Sanity and they worked, so I advise anyone who will be braving the tents in the future to follow them as well. As for me, it's still up in the air as to whether I will be back; if "Full Frontal Fashion" was available on cable TV in Philadelphia, this would be a no-brainer. Even if it isn't, somehow looking at the collections online with a cup of Vanilla Nut Coffeemate-infused coffee in hand is a tempting option.

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