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February/ March 2006

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Fall 2006 New York Fashion Week Daily Diary
February 3rd-10th

Day 5: No Dogs Allowed

Costello Tagliapietra
I went over to the off-site venue, was given my requisite "standing" assignment, and waited outside on the sidewalk to get in (that's where they send us riff-raff who aren't fortunate enough to have seats, put outside like some misbehaving dogs, while those with seats are allowed in immediately to sit inside the heated venue...this is early February in NY after all). After about a half hour, I think I had just about had my fill of waiting, so I left. But I did check out the photos from the show online. Mostly there were lots of slinky disco dresses befitting the Meatpacking District crowd. There were some separates, fur chubby jackets and belted trenches. It was all solids and no patterns to speak of. Overall it was a pretty presentation, but maybe just a little too sober.

Heatherette Heatherette
I should have known that this show was going to be packed to the rafters. So much so, that after an hour wait to get in, we were told the Tent was at capacity, leaving all the brightly colored club kid fans and friends of the Heatherette duo fuck outta luck. At least the wait wasn't a complete waste of time as we downed a couple mojitos during our tenure. Watching it live on the plasma screen TVs in the Bryant Park lobby, it was pretty much Heatherette at its best: the show opened with a nutty tap dancing trio and then unfolded into a runway extravaganza as models waltzed down a piano key catwalk sporting the 70's glam rock by way of 80's New Wave by way of 90's techno dance party duds. Loved the apple emblazoned togs, like the sequin applique sweater and what seemed to be a mod flight attendant ensemble. The short poufy metallic party frocks with tights were fun . Overall, the show was a blast, would have loved to have been inside, though. I did forgo the after-party and instead made it home in time to see the second half of "Love Monkey". Thanks, Tom Cavanagh, for saving me from this MADNESS!

PIBs on Day 5: 23


Day 6: No More Footless Tights!

carlos Carlos Miele
I really don't understand why Miele isn't represented more often on the Hollywood red carpets. And it boggles my mind even more after seeing this show.

The presentation had its share of glammed out sportswear but it was the evening gowns that really shone the brightest. The silhouette was generally long and lean (but not tight) with lots of intricate details, embellished bodices and gathered bustlines. There was quite a bit of beige and taupe, colors I'd normally fall asleep looking at, but funneled through Miele's ultra-sexy vision, they took on something of a Daisy Buchanan feeling (at least to me). He spiced things up a bit with some flowey Impressionist print gowns and criss cross back floor-sweepers in shades of red. And his South American heritage was in particular evidence in the strapless ballgown with its poufy cha-cha hemline.

Abaete
What is it with the footless tights? This is the third or fourth show I've seen them in this week and they never add to the look but more often then not, take away from it. Luckily, for Abaete, I liked the collection enough to be able to block the wretched legwear from my mind (almost). The presentation boasted some very geometric looks (kimono sleeves, sharp A-line dresses) many of which were complimented by some very girlie satin bow sashes. Most outfits we color-blocked and two-tone with square or v-neck collars. Waistlines sat either high and empire or just-below. There was a definite Far Eastern influence, and a couple of the frocks were even reminiscent of martial arts uniforms.

anna

Anna Sui
Has Ms. Sui become, dare I say, predicatable? Let's find out. Naomi Campbell opening the show? Check. Multi-hued cowboy boots? Check. Shortie babydoll frocks? Check. 1970's-esque gypsy prints? Checkmate. Maybe to the casual style watcher, or one not so knee-deep into this particular genre, this may be the fashion equivalent of Bill Murray's life in Groundhog Day. But for someone like me whose personal-style has always been rooted in the 70's, I'm like a 5 year-old watching "Sesame Street". The palette was rich, shades of cranberry, gold, and purple. Ms. Sui took a couple steps back in time as there was a definite swinging 60's-vibe to it all with contrasting Peter Pan collars, patterned tights, and plaid school girl jumpers. The Little Lord Fauntleroy suits complete with ribbon knickers are something I'd totally wear (if I were 5" taller, that is).

She even carted out some pieces of what can only be assumed is her new luggage line, brightly printed oversized duffels and rollie suitcases which are sure to never get lost at JFK's baggage claim. The most interesting (to me, at least) was the plush orange minidress with 3/4 lace-trimmed sleeves which is almost exactly like a vintage piece I sold on eBay in hot pink velvet. Does Ms. Sui troll the online auction site looking for inspiration?

Annoying L. Lohan Moment #3: Another gem from the pages of WWD, Mistress Lindsay tried to convince handbag designer Paula Thomas (of Thomas Wyld) to name a handbag after her. When Thomas informed her that she only named her accessories after London landmarks, Lohan was quick to suggest Abbey Road because she is currently in production for a film about the murder of John Lennon. Other important reasons included her appearance in an upcoming Sean Lennon music video and her historic walk across the famous street in The Parent Trap. No word as to whether Thomas will indulge the egocentric starlet. Also no word as to whether Lohan can actually name all four members of the Beatles.

Do or Don't Be That Guy? You know how it's pretty lame and unhip to go see a band perform and wear their t-shirt to the gig? Does that also mean that it's lame and unhip to wear a designer's clothing to their show? I tend to think of fashion shows and rock concerts as very similar entities and therefore, the answer should be YES. But seeing all of the girlies sporting BCBG at the BCBG show and learning of a number of celebs who wore say, Marc Jacobs at his hullaballoo, apparently it's more acceptable than white after Labor Day. I wonder, then, would the rotation of Earth be disrupted should I sport Anna Sui at Jeremy Scott? Or would it be like mixing Pop Rocks with Coca-Cola and my head shall just explode?


Day 7: Indoor Sports

Custo Barcelona
If we were to believe in the stuff that Marc Jacobs showed earlier this week, grunge is "making a comeback" (what, didn't he learn from his failed collection for Perry Ellis, like, a million years ago?). And after watching Custo Barcelona's runway parade, it looks like Jacobs isn't the only one pushing the street urchin look. And with a soundtrack that included Nirvana's "Lithium", it looks as though the early 90's is fighting to make a comeback. The difference here is that the Custo Barcelona brand is based on the whole mixmatched, piled-on, DIY ethos whereas for Jacobs, it's just a passing fad. So it shouldn't really be too much of a surprise that CB did it much better. Personally, I'm not a fan of wearing patterns that don't compliment each other or layering things together that ultimately look a little bit, um, ridiculous, but if you take apart each look from the CB runway, there are actually some wearable pieces. Still, they are definitely not for the conservative or faint-of-heart. Along with their signature patchworked sportswear, there were some more theatrical pieces with poufy Juliet sleeves, velvet frock coats, and newsboy knickers. Footwear was big with clunky high heels and the girls rocked all manner of patterned tights and knee-high socks for what is turning out to be THE trend of the season (but thankfully NONE of the footless variety).

Show I Wanted to Go to But Ditched Because of the Weather Sadly, the unseasonably warm weather that made outdoor waiting bearable all week blew out of here like Nicole Richie at a five-course dinner so by the time Zaldy's 9pm curtain was to go up, the temperature had dipped to below freezing with a blustery windchill making it feel about 23 degrees. Therefore, I just couldn't bear the thought of leaving my cozy pad to wait outside in the bitter cold (yes, this show is at THAT off-site venue) and becoming an honest-to-goodness "fashion victim". And this being Zaldy's first presentation since his collaboration with Gwen Stefani on her L.A.M.B. show back in September, I assumed there would be something of a mob scene on 18th St., making the wait that much longer. Truth be told, I was REALLY looking forward to it so it bums me out, but getting frost-bite for the sake of fashion is not my idea a good time.

Best News I've Heard All Week

Barbie and Ken are getting back together!

Well, maybe.

Apparently, after two years apart, things have gotten rocky between her and beau Blaine, the Australian surfer, and Ken is back ready to pick up the pieces. After a makeover from celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch, the formerly super square Ken is finally a stylish match for the world-famous blonde. So will Barbie be won over by the Orlando Bloomified version of her former love? Time will only tell, but we're definitely rooting for them because who else do we have? Tom and Katie? Britney and K-Fed? Lindsay and Jared, Leo, Bruce, Sean, Ryan, Wilmer, Josh, Joaquin, Jake?


Day 8: Crossing the (Finish) Line

Manuel Manuel
Being a huge fan of Manuel Cuevas, I think that I was looking forward to this show more than any other this week. He is most famous for his glittering cowboy attire for rock stars in the 70's and 80's, including Elton John, Bob Dylan, Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, and Dolly Parton (he was even responsible for the Beatles' Sgt. Pepper marching band togs and John Travolta's super sexy Urban Cowboy costumes). Since then, he has run a very lucrative business down in Nashville outfitting wealthy cowboys in his $12,000 custom-made suits. So I was on the edge of my seat waiting for, what I thought would be, one big fat country rock runway extravaganza. Unfortunately, that's not quite what I got.

For the most part, the show consisted of biker jackets, sleeveless denim shirts, rhinestone studded jeans, and velvet dresses, all Manuel-ized with a sprinking of embellishment, but all a little bit dated as far as fashion goes. And I'm not talking dated as in 1975 (no, that kind of dating I was hoping for). But more like, 5-years ago dated.

And judging by the reaction of the crowd throughout the show (ie the applause that accompanied the few signature pieces that walked), they seemed to be fans of his old school work as well. Honestly, I wished that the clothes reflected a little more of the famous Manuel country & western roots (his design team did him a total disservice by moving away from these influences). Clearly, my favorite looks were the men's black floral embroidered and girl's shiny copper rodeo shirts. In the end though, I was really hoping to see a little more Gram Parsons and a little less Garth Brooks.

Strenesse
After the madness that was Fashion Week, it was almost like going to a retreat sitting (yes, sitting!) and watching Gabriele Strehle's runway presentation. Grey and cream cashmere sweaters and trousers looked serene and calm but might have been a little too minimalist for my taste if they weren't mixed in with some rich panne velvet frocks and double-breasted coats. The turtlenecks under the sleeveless shifts worn with long chain necklaces was very Chelsea Girl. The few bright shots of color included dresses made of red flannel and pleated yellow organza.
Jeremy Jeremy Scott
Upon writing this, it occured to me that this guy was responsible for that big pink satin monstrosity that made Christina Aguilera look like a marshmallow Peep a few years back, which is good and bad. Good because I always love a designer with a sense of whimsy and wit. Bad because, well, Christina Aguilera looked like a Peep (which could actually be construed as good as it provided us with at least 5 minutes worth of laughter). So while the dirrty girl has cleaned up her act, Jeremy Scott is still bringing to the world some wonderfully wacky clothes that few of us will actually wear, but are a lot of fun to look at. This time around, Monsieur Scott took us on a trip down Memory Lane, back to a random Saturday morning some time in the early 80's. The clothes seemed to be fashioned to trigger that sugar rush we all had while sitting in front of the TV with a big bowl of Cocoa Puffs. There were the red and white diagonal striped pieces that were clearly inspired by Fruit Stripe gum. The cheeseburger and French fries sweaters and jumpsuit were more Aqua Teen than Mickey D's and the ice cream cone dresses make Bjork's swan dress look like an Armani.

The little mini dress printed with the alphabet recalled the colorful little refrigerator magnets from back in the day. Favorite piece, however, was the simple black top emblazoned with big white eyeballs a la the opening credits of Scooby Doo. Now THAT'S something I'd definitely wear.

Luella
No, this isn't a write-up about Luella Bartley's fashion show (I wasn't invited to that, natch). But after a week on the racks, I finally made it to Target to check out her wares. Remembering what happened when Stella McCartney designed a line for H&M last fall (the entire stock sold out within a few days in most stores) and having always loved Luella's (unaffordable) top gear, I was a little anxious that I'd be too late and there'd be nothing left. Lucky me, the Target I went to was fully stocked and I was in heart adorned-London street punk-preppy rocker girl-heaven. I didn't know what to try on first: the awning-striped blazer, the rainbow criss-cross tank, or the little tulip pleated mini skirt. The bags were pretty fantastic too, all with Luella's signature funky little dangling pendants. I settled on just a couple of pieces for now, the yellow multi-pocket hobo and the cherry printed button-down shirt. I'll be heading to another Target later this week, on the prowl for a few items not available in the store I visited. A nice end of Fashion Week treat pour moi!

PIBs on Day 8: 17

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