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~Design of the Times~
Get Mobile, Go Global
SS10- Yoana Baraschi Has the Cure for the Summertime Blues |
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As someone who feels much more at home in blazers and Sperry Topsiders than whispy babydoll dresses,
I can't say that I don't have at least a few embroidered tunics in my wardrobe (all vintage, of course).
The breezy 60's-70's globe-trotting style of Sophia Loren and Julie Christie really do have a way of making me
want to turn on the femininity a little bit once summer rolls around. I imagine myself standing on the
bow of a yacht along the French Riviera sipping a mimosa looking all effortlessy glam in my mini caftan
and gold leather sandals. This is ridiculous of course (in real life, my motion sickness would have had me
wretching overboard hours ago) but those are definitely the types of images that manifested upon viewing
Yoana Baraschi's summer collection. An assortment of brightly colored dresses and tunics,
it's easy to envision Anita Pallenberg sporting some of these pieces back when
she was hanging with the Stones. African-inspired beading decorates the neckline of a simple sheath
while tunics and caftans feature contrasting Moroccan-style embroidery. Names are cheeky like the
"Meet Me in Tangier dress" and "Trevi Cocktail tunic". The webshop even opens with a swanky retro French hornsection and
Brigitte Bardot doppleganger cementing the notion that Yoana Baraschi wants you to go global this summer
even if you're just goin' down the shore.
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Alphabet Street
Resort1010- The Abc's of Be & D |

I am not one of those priviledged ladies who possesses the magical ability to escape to exotic
tropical locales once the frigid winter temps move in. But judging by the sheer number of designer
"Resort" collections (a number that seems to grow every year), there must be some more
fortunate souls out there that are buying up the goods.
Nevertheless, even though I may not have a fancy-assed personal jet at my disposal (and a private
residence in St. Barths), that doesn't mean I can't enjoy looking at pretty pictures of these
vacation creations. In fact, more and more I find myself preferring these collections to the designer's premiere
offerings for Fall and Spring.
Little did I know that these mid-season bridge wares are not exclusive to just clothing.
Accessories label Be & D recently
released its "Cruise" line (ha, see what I did there?) that is stocked full of grommeted leather satchels and hobos along with eyelet punctuated belts, stacked heel wedges, and cage
strap sandals. Be & D's hardware-meets-soft texture signature styles are all accounted for as
are chain straps, bold colors, and cone studs that look ready to take an eye out. But it's the
newer styles that are to-dye-for: watercolor ikat-inspired prints and
flirty ruffle layers in cream and ivory are surprise departures from the brand's usually tough girl approach to luxury
goods.
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Little Bitty Pretty Ones
SS10- Backstage With Olivier Theyskens |

"The idea of the backstage in fashion shows is simultaneously theatrical and authentic".
When I read that statement within the press release for the new book,
Olivier Theyskens,
The Other Side of the Picture, I was pretty excited and eager to learn more.
Having spent quite a few
seasons working behind-the-scenes at New York Fashion Week, and experiencing first-hand the
not-so-controlled chaos that goes on back there, I expected a hyper frenetic collection of
images to be the bulk of this hardcover photography book. Eh, so they're not so chaotic as
far as I can tell but the photos are lovely nonetheless. Olivier is the design school
drop-out who eventually was credited with reviving storied French fashion houses Rochas
and Nina Ricci. In the book, we follow Theyskens' still young career through the
photography of Julien Claessens. The mostly black and white images evoke a surprisingly quiet
solitude that often feel more like moments captured backstage at the ballet than a Parisian
fashion
runway (especially given the theatricality of many a Theysken piece).
Expect bright young models in layers of silk chiffon ruffles, long feather trimmings, and
floaty pleated goodness.
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Always Mesh & Lace
FW2009/10- Rodarte Hits the Bullseye |
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The days of elitest fashion are long gone now that top designers are lining up
for a chance to collaborate with chains stores the world over. In fact, it's almost expected at
this point but it does seem that whenever a new union of designer and retailer is announced
there still tends to be a surprised yet excited "Huzzah!" from the sector of the public that loves its labels.
Target has been the champion of this meeting-of-the-minds which started back in 2007 when
they took on Luella Bartley for what remains as one of the gems of the Go International
crown. Since then, these partnerships have been somewhat hit or miss (thumbs up
for Rogan's modern minimalist with a twist, not so much for Anna Sui whose collection,
although sweet, was a pricey retread of "Gossip Girl" signature styles from Season 1).
So hip hop hooray because Rodarte got it right. Young and fresh with just enough
trash thrown in to keep it a little scrappy, the line mashes up hard-edged denim with tulle and lace,
netting and sequins with silk camis and darling bow belts. It has a DIY-feeling to it,
however with lower price-points than Target's recent past (dresses for $45!). So really, who
needs to do-it-yourself? Even the lookbook seems to have taken it up a notch with models sporting
chunky Dr. Marten-like footwear and tights that are just begging to be torn (did Kate and Laura
find inspiration in a Live Though This-era Courtney Love?). Not sure why it's a "holiday"
collection, though, seeing as it won't be available until just before Christmas. But since
there isn't a green or red velvet item in the lot, these garments can be worn well past
the new year.
Next up: Zac Posen.
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Soft Sell
FW2009/10- Qi Cashmere's Modern Take on Knits |
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When one hears the word "knitwear", visions of matching mother-daughter twinsets embellished
with faux pearls and rosettes often spring to mind (or is that just me?).
However, one peak at the Qi Cashmere website and watch those images disappear in a snap. What started
off in the early 2000's as a specialty cashmere line, Qi has since expanded into a full service brand
covering all the fashion bases, from mesh ballerina skirts to cropped military jackets (little Jenny Humphrey even
digs them). Knitwear, and especially cashmere, is still the company's signature and while the offerings
are definitely on the fashion forward side, the prices are a lot more affordable than one might imagine
with most sweaters running under $200 (co-founder Stephani Qi hiked it all the way to
Mongolia to hunt down the top quality fibers to keep the prices within a reasonable range).
Funnel-neck capelets have cropped bell sleeves, belted tunics have multi-layered appeal, ultra-soft
shift minis come with heavily studded accents.
Think clean lines and modern shapes that look as fresh whether paired with pencil skirts or boyfriend
jeans.
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She's Comes in Color Everywhere
FW2009/10- Sretsis Girls Are Like a Rainbow |
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The first time I heard the name Sretsis, it was a couple summers ago while watching
The Fashionista Diaries when PR assistant Bridget mentioned it was the label
inside her dress. "It's 'sisters' spelled backwards" I recall her saying in
her confused Valley girl-meets-Jersey shore drawl. Just listening to Bridget speak
was like Freddie Krueger having his way with a chalkboard, but I begrudgingly admit that
the girl had a great wardrobe. Just the fact that I still remember Sretsis several years
later is a testament to how much I adore the brand's whimsical and cheeky yet easy-to-wear pieces.
For A/W 09, designer Pim Sukhahuta (along with collaborative siblings Kly and Matina) crafted a collection that is
easily one of their most covetable to date. Building on a theme entitled "Metamorphosis", the Sretsis girls insist that change
will do you good. And if that simply means being bold and wearing some bright in a season
where dark reigns supreme, that's fine by them. Consider one of their satin and
lace mini dresses, which get a dose of Swinging London pop when cut from hot pink
and fresh coral. Curly edge crystal pleats, playful tuxedo details, and star-studded
flourishes prove irresistable fun in vibrant blues and purples. Frocks printed with
dreamy celestial images look like wearable stained glass windows. Still not ready to ditch
your black and white? No worries,
there is still plenty to fall in love with, including metallic trim shifts, dandy
dinner jackets, and tweed tap shorts.
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