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October 1999

Cowboy Junkies

Before the country rock movement began to take shape, a garage band from San Francisco started sporting Old Western gear and became one of the first rock acts to do so. The Charlatans wanted to stand out from the hordes of American bands who were copping the British Invasion look of smart 3-button suits, turtlenecks, and the like. They desired a "strong American identity" according to founding member George Hunter. Their wardrobe, which included pin-striped suits, string ties, and low-slung holsters, was 19th century period perfection. In 1965, they became the resident band for the legendary Red Dog saloon, the Virgina City, Nevada joint complete with crystal chandeliers, waitresses dressed as saloon girls, and a Washo Indian bouncer.

At the other end of the fashion spectrum was Gram Parsons who can arguably claim the title of "Father of Country Rock". First with his college-born group The International Submarine Band and later with The Flying Burrito Brothers (and then with his solo career), Gram developed the blue-print for country rock. He never sold very many records when he was alive, but his influence was and still is, enormous. He only spent a few months as a member of the Byrds but during that time, they recorded Sweetheart of the Rodeo, one of country rock's key albums.

Costume-wise, he was more influenced by the outrageously flashy get-ups of 1950's C&W stars. He seeked out Nudie's Rodeo Tailors while still with his college band and from then on, developed a strong relationship with the suit-maker and was almost always outfitted by him. With lots of embroidery, sequins, and embellishment fit for the Grand Ole Opry, his style made it to the covers of the Burritos' albums and continued when he embarked on his solo venture in 1970.

(from top: The Charlatans, Gram Parsons, The Flying Burrito Brothers)

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How the West
Was Worn
100 Years of
Western Wear
Art of the
Boot
The Cowboy
Boot Book
Hillbilly Hollywood:
Country/ Western Style